Sorry about the low quality, but this was an old flower. This is Zygo. B.G. White Jumbo x Prospect Hill. Zygos have a fantastic fragrance!
Saturday, February 25, 2006
Zygopetalum
Sorry about the low quality, but this was an old flower. This is Zygo. B.G. White Jumbo x Prospect Hill. Zygos have a fantastic fragrance!
Phragmipedium Ecuabess
I absolutely love Phrags. The hybrid Ecuabess (pearcei var. ecuadorense x besseae) is a fantastic hybrid that really displays the unique beauty of ecuadorense and the exotic flare of besseae in one plant. The best part is, is that it is much easier to grow than both its parents! In a couple weeks, though, I'll post a picture of my besseae which is in spike now and preparing to bloom. In the meantime, enjoy this pic. Before I post this, though, I would like to note that in my paph culture post I mispelled parvisepalum.
Paphiopedilum insigne
This is simply one of the coolest orchids out there, and a great pah species to start with.
Monday, February 20, 2006
Reviving a Waterlogged Paph
A popular mistake with the novice Paph grower is overwatering. Though no doubt Paphs like their water, their roots can easily be rotted through over-accumulation of water in the pot. I once experienced this myself, with my first paph, and I can tell you it is possible to revive your waterlogged paph, provided the case is not too severe, especially since mine is still alive today.
You can tell when a paph has lost most or all of its roots because the plant's leaves will have gone limp if it were in that condition for some time, and the plant will be loose in the pot. As well, the plant will probably not grow much (or cease growing). To revive your plant, try this:
1. Remove the plant from its old pot and mix.
2. Examine the plant; look for any rotten parts on the leaves and roots. Cut off all the rotten roots. If roots are only partially rotten, cut into the live part and dust with cinnamon. It is likely that the base of the plant will have rotted as well. If you have any leaves that are rotten at the base, cut them off, and remove all rotten parts on the rhizome, dusting any wounds with cinnamon. If you have any leaves or a developing growth left after this, whether you have any roots or not, you may be able to revive the plant. Otherwise, discard it and hopefully you have learned your lesson!
3. Next, cut a plastic bottle in half (preferably a small 650mL or similar) and fill the bottom with moist sphagnum moss.
4. Nestle the plant in the moss.
5. Replace the top half of the bottle over the bottom half and leave the cap off for air. This setup keeps the plant's surroundings moist and humid, conditions required for root development.
6. Check the moss periodically to keep it moist, and moisten it when required by taking off the top half of the bottle and replacing it afterwards.
After a few weeks, your plant should begin to develop new roots; once the roots are over an inch in length and there are at least two of them, you can repot the plant in as small a pot as possible, in fine fir bark, and resume usual care. Your plant may not bloom for a couple of seasons.
You can tell when a paph has lost most or all of its roots because the plant's leaves will have gone limp if it were in that condition for some time, and the plant will be loose in the pot. As well, the plant will probably not grow much (or cease growing). To revive your plant, try this:
1. Remove the plant from its old pot and mix.
2. Examine the plant; look for any rotten parts on the leaves and roots. Cut off all the rotten roots. If roots are only partially rotten, cut into the live part and dust with cinnamon. It is likely that the base of the plant will have rotted as well. If you have any leaves that are rotten at the base, cut them off, and remove all rotten parts on the rhizome, dusting any wounds with cinnamon. If you have any leaves or a developing growth left after this, whether you have any roots or not, you may be able to revive the plant. Otherwise, discard it and hopefully you have learned your lesson!
3. Next, cut a plastic bottle in half (preferably a small 650mL or similar) and fill the bottom with moist sphagnum moss.
4. Nestle the plant in the moss.
5. Replace the top half of the bottle over the bottom half and leave the cap off for air. This setup keeps the plant's surroundings moist and humid, conditions required for root development.
6. Check the moss periodically to keep it moist, and moisten it when required by taking off the top half of the bottle and replacing it afterwards.
After a few weeks, your plant should begin to develop new roots; once the roots are over an inch in length and there are at least two of them, you can repot the plant in as small a pot as possible, in fine fir bark, and resume usual care. Your plant may not bloom for a couple of seasons.
Paphiopedilum Culture
Every now and then I will post some cultural information about different kinds of orchids. Today's topic is the fabled Paphiopedilum, or slipper orchid. If you live in a temperate region, you may have heard of Cypripediums, or lady's slippers. These are the temperate cousins of Paphs; they both belong to the Slipper Alliance; later in the year I will post info about Cyps as well as the New World tropical slippers, Phragmipediums. Paphs are endemic to southeast Asia.
Generally, paphs prefer indirect light; good places are an east windowsill, a shaded west windowsill, or in the centre of a well-lit room. They should never dry out but should also never be overwatered; the frequency of watering depends on the mix you use, but I water every other day. Fertilizer is just as important to paphs as to other orchids. There are many different methods, but I fertilize with a specialty orchid formula every week when in active growth and every two weeks when not. These formulas are readily available at your local garden centre - follow the label directions. Paphs also need humidity; the classic "humidity tray" method works just fine: cover a tray with pebbles or gravel and add water so that the water does not reach the bottom of the pot (this will rot the roots), and refill when needed. You can buy ready-made humidity trays at your local orchid dealer which do not need pebbles. Temperatures for these guys should be intermediate, with a minimum winter night temp of 13C/55F and a summer day max of 27C/81F. More air movement is required as temps and humidity increase; use a small electric fan. Repotting is required every one or two years: simply tease the roots carefully out of the pot. Then, remove the old mix and cut off any dead/rotten roots, centre the plant in the new pot and add new mix. The mix should be soaked over night before use; use a fine-grade fir bark medium which is available at your local orchid dealer.
Depending on the type of paph you have, these basic care requirements will need to be modified slightly as folllows:
Maudiae: Small plants have large flowers and mottled leaves. Lower light and warmer temperatures.
Complex: Medium sized plants have large flowers with wavy petals and plain green leaves. They prefer standard conitions as explained above.
Parvisepalem: P. delenatii, its relatives and its hybrids. These have delicate, round flowers and gorgeous mottled leaves. Small plants, they require standard conitions as outlined above, but should have a coarser medium.
Brachypetalum: These are curious plants, small with round, bird's egg flowers and mottled leaves. They are harder to grow than the other types. Provide lower temperatures, low light, more coarse medium and much calcium (through plant vitamin supplements or dolomite lime, or oyster shells); also, use only distilled or reverse osmosis water and never tap water.
Multifloral: Though most paphs bear only a single flower, some bear two or more. These have plain green leaves and require warmer temps and higher light.
Generally, paphs prefer indirect light; good places are an east windowsill, a shaded west windowsill, or in the centre of a well-lit room. They should never dry out but should also never be overwatered; the frequency of watering depends on the mix you use, but I water every other day. Fertilizer is just as important to paphs as to other orchids. There are many different methods, but I fertilize with a specialty orchid formula every week when in active growth and every two weeks when not. These formulas are readily available at your local garden centre - follow the label directions. Paphs also need humidity; the classic "humidity tray" method works just fine: cover a tray with pebbles or gravel and add water so that the water does not reach the bottom of the pot (this will rot the roots), and refill when needed. You can buy ready-made humidity trays at your local orchid dealer which do not need pebbles. Temperatures for these guys should be intermediate, with a minimum winter night temp of 13C/55F and a summer day max of 27C/81F. More air movement is required as temps and humidity increase; use a small electric fan. Repotting is required every one or two years: simply tease the roots carefully out of the pot. Then, remove the old mix and cut off any dead/rotten roots, centre the plant in the new pot and add new mix. The mix should be soaked over night before use; use a fine-grade fir bark medium which is available at your local orchid dealer.
Depending on the type of paph you have, these basic care requirements will need to be modified slightly as folllows:
Maudiae: Small plants have large flowers and mottled leaves. Lower light and warmer temperatures.
Complex: Medium sized plants have large flowers with wavy petals and plain green leaves. They prefer standard conitions as explained above.
Parvisepalem: P. delenatii, its relatives and its hybrids. These have delicate, round flowers and gorgeous mottled leaves. Small plants, they require standard conitions as outlined above, but should have a coarser medium.
Brachypetalum: These are curious plants, small with round, bird's egg flowers and mottled leaves. They are harder to grow than the other types. Provide lower temperatures, low light, more coarse medium and much calcium (through plant vitamin supplements or dolomite lime, or oyster shells); also, use only distilled or reverse osmosis water and never tap water.
Multifloral: Though most paphs bear only a single flower, some bear two or more. These have plain green leaves and require warmer temps and higher light.
Paphiopeilum Maudiae-type Hybrid
This beautiful Paph Maudiae-type hybrid is a vinicolor, a Maudiae with a very dark red or maroon flower with very little lighter coloration. This is one of the better strains for a "black" flower, Paph Ruby Peacock x Hampshire Raven. Maudiae-types are very easy to grow, really no more difficult than a Phalaenopsis; they need indirect light and should never dry out. Be careful though not to overwater!
Paphiopedilum Complex Hybrid
This Paphiopedilum complex-type hybrid, Paph (Yerba Buena x Golden Days) x spicerianum, is the latest addition to my collection. I love paph complex-types for their exotic flowers and compact growth habit. They are easily grown on an east windowsill alongside Phalaenopsis, Miltoniopsis, other Paphs, and others.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)
