I wanted to do this at Christmas but never got down to it. Amaryllis have become popular plants to keep indoors at this time of the year. The Amaryllis I refer to are not true Amaryllis, but are rather members of the genus Hippeastrum. However, they closely resemble Amaryllis.
You usually buy Amaryllis in the form of a planting kit which includes a bulb, pot and soil, complete with planting instructions. It's also common to see them as potted plants. The care of these plants is quite simple, but few people know how to keep them as perennials and most often throw them out after flowering.
Care before flowering
When you pot the plant you should plant the bulb so that the neck is above the soil surface, and the part where the bulb starts to round is just below the surface. Amaryllis are prone to rot at the neck, where water can get lodged in the bracts from previous growths. This is why it must not be under the soil. After potting, the soil shoild be kept barely moist. It is probably best to water from the bottom to keep the neck dry. Amaryllis roots grow from the bottom of the bulb; this is the only part of the plant that likes water. The plant should not be watered until the soil has dried to this point; check with a toothpick. As far as light goes, the plant doesn't need bright light at this point because it won't really grow leaves until after flowering. In fact, bright light will produce small flowers or none at all. As for fertilizer, don't until after flowering. And temperature - standard room temps. 20-25C is ideal (during the day), with a 5C difference day-night. Temps down to 10C at night can be tolerated; I recommend around 15C. These conditions are easy to achieve in the home. Six to eight weeks after planting, your plant will flower. You'll notice a thick, hollow stalk topped with a large "bud" appear and grow over time, perhaps along with some leaves (which very seldom fully develop before flowers) or another bud (or two or three). This "bud" will eventually open to reveal several true buds. As the plant ages, more flower stems will develop every season. Each lasts nearly two weeks and they usually open in succession, so the older the bulb the longer the season.
Care after flowering
After flowering, the plant will produce one or more fans of long leaves. The plant makes an attractive houseplant even when not flowering. It should stay green for several months, entering dormancy around August or September (providing it flowered in December or January). In the house (while it's still cold outside), place it near a sunny window, but avoid direct sun. Water in the same way as before, and fertilize every two weeks with a balanced all-purpose formula. In June the plant can be put outside (and should be) to enjoy fresh air and natural temperatures. Keep it in a dappled shady location. Bring it inside before first frost, but it will likely lose its leaves before then. At this point the pot should be dried out and put in a cool place (5-10C) for at least 6 weeks. You can also un-pot the plant and place the bulb in a sealed poly bag, in the crisper drawer of a refrigerator. Keep it dry during dormancy. Note that the bulb should never be frozen! After six weeks have passed, you have the option of repotting the plant and following care before flowering. Remember to pot 6-8 weeks before you want it to flower.
You usually buy Amaryllis in the form of a planting kit which includes a bulb, pot and soil, complete with planting instructions. It's also common to see them as potted plants. The care of these plants is quite simple, but few people know how to keep them as perennials and most often throw them out after flowering.
Care before flowering
When you pot the plant you should plant the bulb so that the neck is above the soil surface, and the part where the bulb starts to round is just below the surface. Amaryllis are prone to rot at the neck, where water can get lodged in the bracts from previous growths. This is why it must not be under the soil. After potting, the soil shoild be kept barely moist. It is probably best to water from the bottom to keep the neck dry. Amaryllis roots grow from the bottom of the bulb; this is the only part of the plant that likes water. The plant should not be watered until the soil has dried to this point; check with a toothpick. As far as light goes, the plant doesn't need bright light at this point because it won't really grow leaves until after flowering. In fact, bright light will produce small flowers or none at all. As for fertilizer, don't until after flowering. And temperature - standard room temps. 20-25C is ideal (during the day), with a 5C difference day-night. Temps down to 10C at night can be tolerated; I recommend around 15C. These conditions are easy to achieve in the home. Six to eight weeks after planting, your plant will flower. You'll notice a thick, hollow stalk topped with a large "bud" appear and grow over time, perhaps along with some leaves (which very seldom fully develop before flowers) or another bud (or two or three). This "bud" will eventually open to reveal several true buds. As the plant ages, more flower stems will develop every season. Each lasts nearly two weeks and they usually open in succession, so the older the bulb the longer the season.
Care after flowering
After flowering, the plant will produce one or more fans of long leaves. The plant makes an attractive houseplant even when not flowering. It should stay green for several months, entering dormancy around August or September (providing it flowered in December or January). In the house (while it's still cold outside), place it near a sunny window, but avoid direct sun. Water in the same way as before, and fertilize every two weeks with a balanced all-purpose formula. In June the plant can be put outside (and should be) to enjoy fresh air and natural temperatures. Keep it in a dappled shady location. Bring it inside before first frost, but it will likely lose its leaves before then. At this point the pot should be dried out and put in a cool place (5-10C) for at least 6 weeks. You can also un-pot the plant and place the bulb in a sealed poly bag, in the crisper drawer of a refrigerator. Keep it dry during dormancy. Note that the bulb should never be frozen! After six weeks have passed, you have the option of repotting the plant and following care before flowering. Remember to pot 6-8 weeks before you want it to flower.
The picture at top is of my Hippeastrum Hadeco 'Symphony Red' as it appeared a couple days ago.
