Saturday, December 23, 2006
New Acquisition
I've developed a tradition of buying a "Christmas Orchid" every year. Last year this was Paph. (Valerie Tonkin x Maudiae). This year it's Cymbidium Un-named Cultivar 'Murasaki Gengi'. I'll be posting photos today.
Wednesday, December 20, 2006
Pictures on the Front Page
I've decorated the front page with some of my most-wanted slipper orchids. As they are acquired they will be replaced with my own photos.
Tuesday, December 19, 2006
2006 Year End Current Orchid List & Wanted List
Current List, with price paid for each:
Bletilla striata 1 $2
Bletilla striata 2 $2
Bletilla striata 3 $2
Bletilla striata 4 $2
Brassia Eternal Wind 'Summer Dream' $35
Cypripedium calceolus (?) $25
Cypripedium macranthos $25
Cypripedium parviflorum var. parviflorum $10
Cypripedium parviflorum var. pubescens 1 $25
Cypripedium parviflorum var. pubescens 2 $25
Cypripedium parviflorum var. pubescens 3 $20
Cypripedium parviflorum var. pubescens 4 $40
Cypripedium reginae 1 $30
Cypripedium reginae 2 $25
Cypripedium Ulla Silkens $60
Dactylorhiza purpurella $25
Dendrobium kingianum $20
Dendrobium unknown seedling $0
Doritaenopsis (Dtps. Taisuco Okay Stripe x Phal. amabilis) $20
Odontoglossum Tiger Crow 'Golden Girl' (?) $20
Odontoglossum Violetta von Holm 'Dominique' $30
Odontonia Memoria Martin Orenstein 'Lulu' HCC/AOS $30
Paphiopedilum (Carticle x Hsinying Maru) $40
Paphiopedilum (Claire de Lune x philippinense var. alba) $50
Paphiopedilum delenatii ('Jingle Bells' x 'Dark & Flat') $35
Paphiopedilum Ho Chi Minh $30
Paphiopedilum insigne 1 $10
Paphiopedilum insigne 2 $10
Paphiopedilum (Joyce Hasegawa x chamberlainianum) $30
Paphiopedilum (Ruby Peacock x Hampshire Raven) $50
Paphiopedilum (Valerie Tonkin x Maudiae) $55
Paphiopedilum (Yerba Buena x Golden Days) x spicerianum $30
Paphiopedilum (Z4135 x charlesworthii) $50
Phalaenopsis Maki Watanabe $30
Phragmipedium besseae ('Fire Engine' x 'First Choice') $45
Phragmipedium Ecua-bess $35
Phragmipedium Grande $65
Phragmipedium Saint Ouen $25
Phragmipedium schlimii $20
Total = 39 orchids, $1083 spent
Wanted List (In no particular order), bolded = most wanted:
(includes maximum value estimated)
Paphiopedilum micranthum $80
Phragmipedium fischeri $80
Phragmipedium kovachii $200
Phragmipedium Hanne Popow $50
Phragmipedium schlimii 'Wilcox' AM/AOS (Cardinale) $80
Paphiopedilum Magic Lantern $45
Cypripedium montanum $90
Cypripedium acaule $35
Cypripedium x andrewsii $80
Cypripedium Gisela $60
Cypripedium formosanum $45
Phragmipedium Ruby Slippers $55
Cypripedium kentuckiense $35
Paphiopedilum Armeni-white $45
Paphiopedilum villosum $45
Cypripedium Inge $60
Mexipedium xerophyticum $80
I also really want a couple complex paphs, one in red/pink shades and one in copper/orange/yellow shades (perhaps a white one too).
Bletilla striata 1 $2
Bletilla striata 2 $2
Bletilla striata 3 $2
Bletilla striata 4 $2
Brassia Eternal Wind 'Summer Dream' $35
Cypripedium calceolus (?) $25
Cypripedium macranthos $25
Cypripedium parviflorum var. parviflorum $10
Cypripedium parviflorum var. pubescens 1 $25
Cypripedium parviflorum var. pubescens 2 $25
Cypripedium parviflorum var. pubescens 3 $20
Cypripedium parviflorum var. pubescens 4 $40
Cypripedium reginae 1 $30
Cypripedium reginae 2 $25
Cypripedium Ulla Silkens $60
Dactylorhiza purpurella $25
Dendrobium kingianum $20
Dendrobium unknown seedling $0
Doritaenopsis (Dtps. Taisuco Okay Stripe x Phal. amabilis) $20
Odontoglossum Tiger Crow 'Golden Girl' (?) $20
Odontoglossum Violetta von Holm 'Dominique' $30
Odontonia Memoria Martin Orenstein 'Lulu' HCC/AOS $30
Paphiopedilum (Carticle x Hsinying Maru) $40
Paphiopedilum (Claire de Lune x philippinense var. alba) $50
Paphiopedilum delenatii ('Jingle Bells' x 'Dark & Flat') $35
Paphiopedilum Ho Chi Minh $30
Paphiopedilum insigne 1 $10
Paphiopedilum insigne 2 $10
Paphiopedilum (Joyce Hasegawa x chamberlainianum) $30
Paphiopedilum (Ruby Peacock x Hampshire Raven) $50
Paphiopedilum (Valerie Tonkin x Maudiae) $55
Paphiopedilum (Yerba Buena x Golden Days) x spicerianum $30
Paphiopedilum (Z4135 x charlesworthii) $50
Phalaenopsis Maki Watanabe $30
Phragmipedium besseae ('Fire Engine' x 'First Choice') $45
Phragmipedium Ecua-bess $35
Phragmipedium Grande $65
Phragmipedium Saint Ouen $25
Phragmipedium schlimii $20
Total = 39 orchids, $1083 spent
Wanted List (In no particular order), bolded = most wanted:
(includes maximum value estimated)
Paphiopedilum micranthum $80
Phragmipedium fischeri $80
Phragmipedium kovachii $200
Phragmipedium Hanne Popow $50
Phragmipedium schlimii 'Wilcox' AM/AOS (Cardinale) $80
Paphiopedilum Magic Lantern $45
Cypripedium montanum $90
Cypripedium acaule $35
Cypripedium x andrewsii $80
Cypripedium Gisela $60
Cypripedium formosanum $45
Phragmipedium Ruby Slippers $55
Cypripedium kentuckiense $35
Paphiopedilum Armeni-white $45
Paphiopedilum villosum $45
Cypripedium Inge $60
Mexipedium xerophyticum $80
I also really want a couple complex paphs, one in red/pink shades and one in copper/orange/yellow shades (perhaps a white one too).
Planting Cypripediums, Volume 3
In this third and final volume I'd like to discuss care after planting, on a seasonal basis.
Spring
In the spring Cyps will emerge from the ground after the dormant period and almost immediately begin flowering. Remove any mulch after last frost. It takes about 2 weeks to completely unravel the leaves and open the flowers. The flowers will last for another 2-3 weeks. Different Cyps have slightly different times at which they emerge and flower, and different rates at which they grow. At this time you want to fertilize lightly, using half strength orchid food every two weeks or so. Remember not to let the soil dry out completely, with the exception of C. acaule, which only ever needs to be watered in drought years (unless you need to adjust the pH with vinegar solution). If you want cut flowers, cut as short as possible and only on large established clumps; it weakens the plant.
Summer
After flowering, Cyps enter their active growth phase. You can't tell from above ground, but underground the plant is producing new roots and next year's growth buds. During this time they need the most fertilizer (especially hybrids and reginae). For hybrids and reginae, use Miracle-Gro or comparable product as for perennials; for all others use the half strength orchid food every week. It is also advisable at this time to mulch with organic content; this enriches the soil and keeps it cool and moist (don't do this for C. acaule and NEVER fertilize it! Mulch with conifer needles instaed).
Fall
As the weather changes the Cyps will begin to enter their dormant phase. The leaves will turn yellow, then brown (some just turn brown). Once the growths are completely dead, you may remove them if desired. If you are lucky you may have some seed pods on flowered growths; if so you can either leave them to disperse the seeds naturally, or spread the seeds over the ground yourself. Perhaps one day I'll create a post explaining how to sow seeds in the lab... doing it the natural way will get you flowering plants in 10-16 years if you're lucky. Now mulch with a few inches of dead leaves for winter protection.
Winter
During the winter Cyps have their dormant period. If you're growing in containers, keep the plant in the crisper drawer of a fridge for at least 3 months, BARELY damp.
Happy growing; this concludes Planting Cypripediums!
Spring
In the spring Cyps will emerge from the ground after the dormant period and almost immediately begin flowering. Remove any mulch after last frost. It takes about 2 weeks to completely unravel the leaves and open the flowers. The flowers will last for another 2-3 weeks. Different Cyps have slightly different times at which they emerge and flower, and different rates at which they grow. At this time you want to fertilize lightly, using half strength orchid food every two weeks or so. Remember not to let the soil dry out completely, with the exception of C. acaule, which only ever needs to be watered in drought years (unless you need to adjust the pH with vinegar solution). If you want cut flowers, cut as short as possible and only on large established clumps; it weakens the plant.
Summer
After flowering, Cyps enter their active growth phase. You can't tell from above ground, but underground the plant is producing new roots and next year's growth buds. During this time they need the most fertilizer (especially hybrids and reginae). For hybrids and reginae, use Miracle-Gro or comparable product as for perennials; for all others use the half strength orchid food every week. It is also advisable at this time to mulch with organic content; this enriches the soil and keeps it cool and moist (don't do this for C. acaule and NEVER fertilize it! Mulch with conifer needles instaed).
Fall
As the weather changes the Cyps will begin to enter their dormant phase. The leaves will turn yellow, then brown (some just turn brown). Once the growths are completely dead, you may remove them if desired. If you are lucky you may have some seed pods on flowered growths; if so you can either leave them to disperse the seeds naturally, or spread the seeds over the ground yourself. Perhaps one day I'll create a post explaining how to sow seeds in the lab... doing it the natural way will get you flowering plants in 10-16 years if you're lucky. Now mulch with a few inches of dead leaves for winter protection.
Winter
During the winter Cyps have their dormant period. If you're growing in containers, keep the plant in the crisper drawer of a fridge for at least 3 months, BARELY damp.
Happy growing; this concludes Planting Cypripediums!
Monday, December 18, 2006
Planting Cypripediums: Volume 2
This second of three volumes is on soil mixes and hardiness for individual species and hybrids.
The most common Cyp. species are C. acaule, C. calceolus, C. formosanum, C. kentuckiense, C. macranthos, C. montanum, C. parviflorum, C. reginae, and C. tibeticum. The most common hybrids are C. Aki, C. Emil, C. Gisela, C. Hank Small, C. Inge, C. Ingrid, C. Maria, C. Michael, C. Philip, and C. Ulla Silkens. Hybrids grow pretty much the same; species have individual needs.
C. acaule requires a very acidic soil, pH 3.5-5. I recommend spreading the roots over sand and covering in pine mulch, then watering sparingly with a solution of pure water and vinegar, at a rate of 1 ounce vinegar per gallon water. Hardy to zone 2.
C. calceolus should not be confused with our native yellow lady's slipper (C. parviflorum). I am referring to the European clone. A pH of 7-8 is necessary, with perfectly-drained soil. Use a balanced mix with loam, sand and gravel. Hardy to zone 3.
C. formosanum makes a great potted plant if it isn't hardy to your region. Known as an easy species, it prefers a pH of 6-7, in a well-drained soil. Always add drainage material in the bottom in the pot. Hardy to zone 6.
C. kentuckiense is just beginning to gain popularity. It is sought-after for its large flowers (largest in the genus). It likes a sandy soil with a pH of 5-6. I recommend using mostly sand with a little loam and a top-dressing of conifer mulch. Hardy to zone 3.
C. macranthos is very popular for its showy flowers in shades of pink, purple and red. It must have a prefectly-drained soil; use a well-balanced mix with loam, sand and gravel; pH around 7. Hardy to zone 2.
C. montanum is sought-after by collectors but has a reputation of being difficult to grow. It must have a sharply drained soil with plenty of gravel and sand, pH 7-8. I recommend planting on a slope. Hardy to zone 2.
C. parviflorum is the most common Cyp. It is easy to grow in a well-drained soil, pH 6-7. Hardy to zone 2.
C. reginae is the most majestic of the Cyps and is highly sought-after. It is relatively easy to grow in a well-drained soil, pH 7-8. Likes lots of moisture (NEVER wet!) and fertilizer. Hardy to zone 3.
C. tibeticum is a collector's species that is closely allied to C. macranthos but has darker maroon flowers. It requires perfect drainage, pH around 7. I'm unsure about hardiness but it has been grown in zone 3.
All hybrids like well-drained soil and lots of fertilizer, pH around 7. They're all hardy to at least zone 3.
The third and final volume will be about care after planting.
The most common Cyp. species are C. acaule, C. calceolus, C. formosanum, C. kentuckiense, C. macranthos, C. montanum, C. parviflorum, C. reginae, and C. tibeticum. The most common hybrids are C. Aki, C. Emil, C. Gisela, C. Hank Small, C. Inge, C. Ingrid, C. Maria, C. Michael, C. Philip, and C. Ulla Silkens. Hybrids grow pretty much the same; species have individual needs.
C. acaule requires a very acidic soil, pH 3.5-5. I recommend spreading the roots over sand and covering in pine mulch, then watering sparingly with a solution of pure water and vinegar, at a rate of 1 ounce vinegar per gallon water. Hardy to zone 2.
C. calceolus should not be confused with our native yellow lady's slipper (C. parviflorum). I am referring to the European clone. A pH of 7-8 is necessary, with perfectly-drained soil. Use a balanced mix with loam, sand and gravel. Hardy to zone 3.
C. formosanum makes a great potted plant if it isn't hardy to your region. Known as an easy species, it prefers a pH of 6-7, in a well-drained soil. Always add drainage material in the bottom in the pot. Hardy to zone 6.
C. kentuckiense is just beginning to gain popularity. It is sought-after for its large flowers (largest in the genus). It likes a sandy soil with a pH of 5-6. I recommend using mostly sand with a little loam and a top-dressing of conifer mulch. Hardy to zone 3.
C. macranthos is very popular for its showy flowers in shades of pink, purple and red. It must have a prefectly-drained soil; use a well-balanced mix with loam, sand and gravel; pH around 7. Hardy to zone 2.
C. montanum is sought-after by collectors but has a reputation of being difficult to grow. It must have a sharply drained soil with plenty of gravel and sand, pH 7-8. I recommend planting on a slope. Hardy to zone 2.
C. parviflorum is the most common Cyp. It is easy to grow in a well-drained soil, pH 6-7. Hardy to zone 2.
C. reginae is the most majestic of the Cyps and is highly sought-after. It is relatively easy to grow in a well-drained soil, pH 7-8. Likes lots of moisture (NEVER wet!) and fertilizer. Hardy to zone 3.
C. tibeticum is a collector's species that is closely allied to C. macranthos but has darker maroon flowers. It requires perfect drainage, pH around 7. I'm unsure about hardiness but it has been grown in zone 3.
All hybrids like well-drained soil and lots of fertilizer, pH around 7. They're all hardy to at least zone 3.
The third and final volume will be about care after planting.
Sunday, December 17, 2006
Planting Cypripediums, Volume 1
I'm starting "volumes" or series of orchid information posts which I hope will become valuable Internet resources for people who share the same love I do. My first series is for planting Cypripediums, the genus of orchids I started with. Cyps (short form) are slipper orchids of the northern hemisphere, most of which are temperate zone inhabitants. In this first of three volumes I will discuss preparing the planting area.
Most species and hybrids prefer light shade, as you would get at woodland egdes. They need diffuse light to bloom, but too much direct sun easily scorches the leaves (even here in zone 3). Choose an area with such lightinng conditions, outside unless you are growing a variety which is not hardy to your region (not likely; in volume 2 I'll include a list of common species and their hardiness). Secondly, most Cyps need a lot of room to expand their rhizomes, because they will (or at least should) be left undisturbed here for many years. Over time they'll form large clumps, and they don't tolerate competition. Most species and hybrids should have a hole about 16" deep and at least 12" wide. Granted Cyp roots are quite shallow, they should still have a deep hole for lots of drainage material at the bottom. Note that vigorous hybrids and large species like reginae need wider holes to accommodate their large rootstocks.
With the hole dug, line it with landscape fabric to keep weeds out and add 10" of drainage material. The roots of the plant only need 6" of soil on top of this. Add 2-3" of the soil mix to the drainage layer, then spread the roots over this horizontally and fill the hole, without patting down. Then water thoroughly. The tips of the growth buds (on dormant plants) should be about an inch below the soil surface.
The next volume will be on species/hybrid hardiness and soil composition.
Most species and hybrids prefer light shade, as you would get at woodland egdes. They need diffuse light to bloom, but too much direct sun easily scorches the leaves (even here in zone 3). Choose an area with such lightinng conditions, outside unless you are growing a variety which is not hardy to your region (not likely; in volume 2 I'll include a list of common species and their hardiness). Secondly, most Cyps need a lot of room to expand their rhizomes, because they will (or at least should) be left undisturbed here for many years. Over time they'll form large clumps, and they don't tolerate competition. Most species and hybrids should have a hole about 16" deep and at least 12" wide. Granted Cyp roots are quite shallow, they should still have a deep hole for lots of drainage material at the bottom. Note that vigorous hybrids and large species like reginae need wider holes to accommodate their large rootstocks.
With the hole dug, line it with landscape fabric to keep weeds out and add 10" of drainage material. The roots of the plant only need 6" of soil on top of this. Add 2-3" of the soil mix to the drainage layer, then spread the roots over this horizontally and fill the hole, without patting down. Then water thoroughly. The tips of the growth buds (on dormant plants) should be about an inch below the soil surface.
The next volume will be on species/hybrid hardiness and soil composition.
New Upgrade!
Joe's Orchids has been uprgaded to the new version of Blogger, Blogger Beta! Over the next couple of days I'll be tinkering around with the new features no make the page its best possible. As well, I've changed the address for the page to http://joesorchids.blogspot.com.
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