Paph (S. Gratrix x bellatulum) x micranthum

This is my newest and most unexpected orchid purchase. It's an amazing parvi influence hybrid with some brachy parentage. It greatly resembles Magic Lantern and even more so micranthum itself... wow! It has a HUGE pouch. This flower is over 4" across, but the plant is only 6" tall and has a leafspan of 6"! I paid $40 for this one.

My First Awarded Orchid

Paph. Z4135 x charlesworthii, pictured here, is my first orchid to receive an award, at my society's meeting this past weekend. The ribbon is for First in Class Paphiopedilum. I bought it in flower in August 2006 and couldn't believe it flowered again so soon.

Paph. Z4135 x charlesworthii - New Flower

I posted before that this plant was developing a spike - about a week ago the bud opened. I'll be posting photos, along with a little story, soon.

Phragmipedium schlimii - Great News

I've been worried lately about my Phrag. schlimii. I got a good deal on it; I took a gamble on a pretty yellow plant with short leaves (snipped). However, just as I hoped, it's now forming two new beautiful growths and seems very happy in its rookwool. Woohoo!

My Last 2 Orchids

This winter/spring I'll be buying my last 2 orchids for a while... until I can get more space. The scoop is that Orchids in Our Tropics finally got back to me about the Phrag. schlimii (Cardinale) 'Wilcox' AM/AOS and they'll be bringing it to the orchid show I'll be attending next month. The other one is, as I've already said, my Phrag. kovachii seedling, which has already been ordered from Green Canyon and will ship in May. In total this last investment will cost me $150 ($75 each).

Bird of Paradise Culture

The bird of paradise is a popular and well-known subtropical plant. Its exotic, orange flowers are unmistakable. In warm climates it's actually a common garden plant, and in cooler climates it makes a good houseplant, a patio plant during the summer. These plants are expensive blooming size but can sometimes be found cheaper as younger plants. Not only are they usually imported, but take at least 3-5 years from seed to reach marurity; this is the reason for their high prices. Seed is readily available but difficult to germinate.

As a houseplant, the bird of paradise likes bright light and as such makes a great heated sunroom plant. South and west windows work too. Outside it prefers full sun. It should be watered generously in the summer, less in winter. Bird of paradise does not like dry soil. Fertilizer should never be applied copiously as this causes excessive foliage and few flowers. However, the occasional feeding (every 2-3 weeks, less in winter) is needed. Use a balanced all-purpose formula. This plant likes to be potbound and as such should only be repotted if absolutely necessary. They seem to flower more in this state. Use a high quality potting soil mix or tropical mix. Bird of paradise usually flowers from late winter into summer, but they can bloom throughout the year. The flowers last several weeks.

There are three main bird of paradise species, Strelitzia reginae (common bird), S. alba (white bird) and S. nicolai (giant bird). A popular variety of S. reginae, 'Mandela's Gold', exists which has a compact habit and exceptionally bright flowers. Both S. alba and S. nicolai have larger, white flowers, and have a larger habit than S. reginae; S. nicolai grows much like a tree and can reach 30 feet in height. It obviously doesn't make a very good houseplant. S. reginae grows 3-4' tall and S. alba grows 5-6'. S. alba is commonly seen in nurseries, often mislabeled as S. nicolai. The distinguishing feature of S. nicolai is its tough trunk.

The easiest method of bird of paradise propagation is by divison. Only divide large, mature clumps. Divisons can take 1-2 years to bloom. Seed propagation is another method. You can buy a package of seeds pretty much anywhere for around $5, compared to prices of mature plants up to $250 that I've seen. However, seed propagation is a slow process that requires much patience. By no means is it as complex and skill-demanding as orchid seed propagtion, but it isn't like sowing sweet peas. The seeds are about the size of sweet pea seeds though, and have a hard covering, and an orange tuft of hairs on the end. They must have these tufts removed, then be soaked in lukewarm water for 24 hours, and scarified with a file or knife. At this point the seeds should be lightly pressed into a 1:1 mix of sand and potting soil, and kept moist and humid under a dome, in diminished light and at room temperature. They will take 1-3 months to germinate. Once the seedlings have 3 or 4 true leaves, they should be pricked out and planted in small pots of seedling mix. They should then be repotted as needed.

Follow-up to Amaryllis Culture

The above photo shows a close-up of one of the flowers on my Hippeastrum Hadeco 'Symphony Red'. It is 7 inches wide. This is my only amaryllis, in its second year under my culture. Next year I plan to increase my collection of these.

Amaryllis (Hippeastrum) Culture

I wanted to do this at Christmas but never got down to it. Amaryllis have become popular plants to keep indoors at this time of the year. The Amaryllis I refer to are not true Amaryllis, but are rather members of the genus Hippeastrum. However, they closely resemble Amaryllis.

You usually buy Amaryllis in the form of a planting kit which includes a bulb, pot and soil, complete with planting instructions. It's also common to see them as potted plants. The care of these plants is quite simple, but few people know how to keep them as perennials and most often throw them out after flowering.

Care before flowering

When you pot the plant you should plant the bulb so that the neck is above the soil surface, and the part where the bulb starts to round is just below the surface. Amaryllis are prone to rot at the neck, where water can get lodged in the bracts from previous growths. This is why it must not be under the soil. After potting, the soil shoild be kept barely moist. It is probably best to water from the bottom to keep the neck dry. Amaryllis roots grow from the bottom of the bulb; this is the only part of the plant that likes water. The plant should not be watered until the soil has dried to this point; check with a toothpick. As far as light goes, the plant doesn't need bright light at this point because it won't really grow leaves until after flowering. In fact, bright light will produce small flowers or none at all. As for fertilizer, don't until after flowering. And temperature - standard room temps. 20-25C is ideal (during the day), with a 5C difference day-night. Temps down to 10C at night can be tolerated; I recommend around 15C. These conditions are easy to achieve in the home. Six to eight weeks after planting, your plant will flower. You'll notice a thick, hollow stalk topped with a large "bud" appear and grow over time, perhaps along with some leaves (which very seldom fully develop before flowers) or another bud (or two or three). This "bud" will eventually open to reveal several true buds. As the plant ages, more flower stems will develop every season. Each lasts nearly two weeks and they usually open in succession, so the older the bulb the longer the season.

Care after flowering

After flowering, the plant will produce one or more fans of long leaves. The plant makes an attractive houseplant even when not flowering. It should stay green for several months, entering dormancy around August or September (providing it flowered in December or January). In the house (while it's still cold outside), place it near a sunny window, but avoid direct sun. Water in the same way as before, and fertilize every two weeks with a balanced all-purpose formula. In June the plant can be put outside (and should be) to enjoy fresh air and natural temperatures. Keep it in a dappled shady location. Bring it inside before first frost, but it will likely lose its leaves before then. At this point the pot should be dried out and put in a cool place (5-10C) for at least 6 weeks. You can also un-pot the plant and place the bulb in a sealed poly bag, in the crisper drawer of a refrigerator. Keep it dry during dormancy. Note that the bulb should never be frozen! After six weeks have passed, you have the option of repotting the plant and following care before flowering. Remember to pot 6-8 weeks before you want it to flower.

The picture at top is of my Hippeastrum Hadeco 'Symphony Red' as it appeared a couple days ago.

Phragmipedium schlimii New Photo

This plant bloomed many weeks ago but I just found this photo in my album; it's of higher quality than the others I posted and is of the second of two flowers produced.

Phragmipedium Saint Ouen

A popular Phrag hybrid. It bloomed some time ago but I never posted the photo.

Doritaenopsis (Dtps. Taisuco Okay Stripe x Phal. amabilis)

I like the candy striped Phal/Dtps hybrids.

Cymbidium Gung Hey Fat Choy 'Murasaki Gengi'

This Chinese Cymbidium hybrid, strangely enough, is a named clone of an un-named hybrid. Therefore since it's Chinese and blooming at New Year's, I named it "Gung Hey Fat Choy".

Phragmipedium kovachii Culture Notes

I attended Peter Croezen's presentation on this amazing plant last week and the following is what I learned.

Light
Seedlings must have low light at 400-450 footcandles. Higher light will cause fatal leaf yellowing.

Water
Use pure water (such as distilled, rain or RO). Keep moist but not soggy. They really like growing their roots into water; using PrimeAgra creates an environment that keeps the roots very moist but not too soggy.

Fertilizer
Use a mineral-rich fertilizer at 200ppm every week. Calcium, magnesium and boron are important.

Temperature
Keep a relatively constant temp. of 20C. Higher temps (above 24C) will cause fatal leaf yellowing.

Media
As newly deflasked seedlings, pot into a small 2" container, in sphagnum moss, and keep moist. When a considerable rootball is developed, pot up, into PrimeAgra or bark.

I have ordered a Pk seedling from Mr. Croezen.

New Acquisition

I've developed a tradition of buying a "Christmas Orchid" every year. Last year this was Paph. (Valerie Tonkin x Maudiae). This year it's Cymbidium Un-named Cultivar 'Murasaki Gengi'. I'll be posting photos today.

Pictures on the Front Page

I've decorated the front page with some of my most-wanted slipper orchids. As they are acquired they will be replaced with my own photos.

2006 Year End Current Orchid List & Wanted List

Current List, with price paid for each:

Bletilla striata 1 $2
Bletilla striata 2 $2
Bletilla striata 3 $2
Bletilla striata 4 $2
Brassia Eternal Wind 'Summer Dream' $35
Cypripedium calceolus (?) $25
Cypripedium macranthos $25
Cypripedium parviflorum var. parviflorum $10
Cypripedium parviflorum var. pubescens 1 $25
Cypripedium parviflorum var. pubescens 2 $25
Cypripedium parviflorum var. pubescens 3 $20
Cypripedium parviflorum var. pubescens 4 $40
Cypripedium reginae 1 $30
Cypripedium reginae 2 $25
Cypripedium Ulla Silkens $60
Dactylorhiza purpurella $25
Dendrobium kingianum $20
Dendrobium unknown seedling $0
Doritaenopsis (Dtps. Taisuco Okay Stripe x Phal. amabilis) $20
Odontoglossum Tiger Crow 'Golden Girl' (?) $20
Odontoglossum Violetta von Holm 'Dominique' $30
Odontonia Memoria Martin Orenstein 'Lulu' HCC/AOS $30
Paphiopedilum (Carticle x Hsinying Maru) $40
Paphiopedilum (Claire de Lune x philippinense var. alba) $50
Paphiopedilum delenatii ('Jingle Bells' x 'Dark & Flat') $35
Paphiopedilum Ho Chi Minh $30
Paphiopedilum insigne 1 $10
Paphiopedilum insigne 2 $10
Paphiopedilum (Joyce Hasegawa x chamberlainianum) $30
Paphiopedilum (Ruby Peacock x Hampshire Raven) $50
Paphiopedilum (Valerie Tonkin x Maudiae) $55
Paphiopedilum (Yerba Buena x Golden Days) x spicerianum $30
Paphiopedilum (Z4135 x charlesworthii) $50
Phalaenopsis Maki Watanabe $30
Phragmipedium besseae ('Fire Engine' x 'First Choice') $45
Phragmipedium Ecua-bess $35
Phragmipedium Grande $65
Phragmipedium Saint Ouen $25
Phragmipedium schlimii $20

Total = 39 orchids, $1083 spent

Wanted List (In no particular order), bolded = most wanted:

(includes maximum value estimated)

Paphiopedilum micranthum $80
Phragmipedium fischeri $80
Phragmipedium kovachii $200
Phragmipedium Hanne Popow $50
Phragmipedium schlimii 'Wilcox' AM/AOS (Cardinale) $80
Paphiopedilum Magic Lantern $45
Cypripedium montanum $90
Cypripedium acaule $35
Cypripedium x andrewsii $80
Cypripedium Gisela $60
Cypripedium formosanum $45
Phragmipedium Ruby Slippers $55
Cypripedium kentuckiense $35
Paphiopedilum Armeni-white $45
Paphiopedilum villosum $45
Cypripedium Inge $60
Mexipedium xerophyticum $80

I also really want a couple complex paphs, one in red/pink shades and one in copper/orange/yellow shades (perhaps a white one too).

Planting Cypripediums, Volume 3

In this third and final volume I'd like to discuss care after planting, on a seasonal basis.

Spring

In the spring Cyps will emerge from the ground after the dormant period and almost immediately begin flowering. Remove any mulch after last frost. It takes about 2 weeks to completely unravel the leaves and open the flowers. The flowers will last for another 2-3 weeks. Different Cyps have slightly different times at which they emerge and flower, and different rates at which they grow. At this time you want to fertilize lightly, using half strength orchid food every two weeks or so. Remember not to let the soil dry out completely, with the exception of C. acaule, which only ever needs to be watered in drought years (unless you need to adjust the pH with vinegar solution). If you want cut flowers, cut as short as possible and only on large established clumps; it weakens the plant.

Summer

After flowering, Cyps enter their active growth phase. You can't tell from above ground, but underground the plant is producing new roots and next year's growth buds. During this time they need the most fertilizer (especially hybrids and reginae). For hybrids and reginae, use Miracle-Gro or comparable product as for perennials; for all others use the half strength orchid food every week. It is also advisable at this time to mulch with organic content; this enriches the soil and keeps it cool and moist (don't do this for C. acaule and NEVER fertilize it! Mulch with conifer needles instaed).

Fall

As the weather changes the Cyps will begin to enter their dormant phase. The leaves will turn yellow, then brown (some just turn brown). Once the growths are completely dead, you may remove them if desired. If you are lucky you may have some seed pods on flowered growths; if so you can either leave them to disperse the seeds naturally, or spread the seeds over the ground yourself. Perhaps one day I'll create a post explaining how to sow seeds in the lab... doing it the natural way will get you flowering plants in 10-16 years if you're lucky. Now mulch with a few inches of dead leaves for winter protection.

Winter

During the winter Cyps have their dormant period. If you're growing in containers, keep the plant in the crisper drawer of a fridge for at least 3 months, BARELY damp.

Happy growing; this concludes Planting Cypripediums!

Planting Cypripediums: Volume 2

This second of three volumes is on soil mixes and hardiness for individual species and hybrids.

The most common Cyp. species are C. acaule, C. calceolus, C. formosanum, C. kentuckiense, C. macranthos, C. montanum, C. parviflorum, C. reginae, and C. tibeticum. The most common hybrids are C. Aki, C. Emil, C. Gisela, C. Hank Small, C. Inge, C. Ingrid, C. Maria, C. Michael, C. Philip, and C. Ulla Silkens. Hybrids grow pretty much the same; species have individual needs.

C. acaule requires a very acidic soil, pH 3.5-5. I recommend spreading the roots over sand and covering in pine mulch, then watering sparingly with a solution of pure water and vinegar, at a rate of 1 ounce vinegar per gallon water. Hardy to zone 2.

C. calceolus should not be confused with our native yellow lady's slipper (C. parviflorum). I am referring to the European clone. A pH of 7-8 is necessary, with perfectly-drained soil. Use a balanced mix with loam, sand and gravel. Hardy to zone 3.

C. formosanum makes a great potted plant if it isn't hardy to your region. Known as an easy species, it prefers a pH of 6-7, in a well-drained soil. Always add drainage material in the bottom in the pot. Hardy to zone 6.

C. kentuckiense is just beginning to gain popularity. It is sought-after for its large flowers (largest in the genus). It likes a sandy soil with a pH of 5-6. I recommend using mostly sand with a little loam and a top-dressing of conifer mulch. Hardy to zone 3.

C. macranthos is very popular for its showy flowers in shades of pink, purple and red. It must have a prefectly-drained soil; use a well-balanced mix with loam, sand and gravel; pH around 7. Hardy to zone 2.

C. montanum is sought-after by collectors but has a reputation of being difficult to grow. It must have a sharply drained soil with plenty of gravel and sand, pH 7-8. I recommend planting on a slope. Hardy to zone 2.

C. parviflorum is the most common Cyp. It is easy to grow in a well-drained soil, pH 6-7. Hardy to zone 2.

C. reginae is the most majestic of the Cyps and is highly sought-after. It is relatively easy to grow in a well-drained soil, pH 7-8. Likes lots of moisture (NEVER wet!) and fertilizer. Hardy to zone 3.

C. tibeticum is a collector's species that is closely allied to C. macranthos but has darker maroon flowers. It requires perfect drainage, pH around 7. I'm unsure about hardiness but it has been grown in zone 3.

All hybrids like well-drained soil and lots of fertilizer, pH around 7. They're all hardy to at least zone 3.

The third and final volume will be about care after planting.

Planting Cypripediums, Volume 1

I'm starting "volumes" or series of orchid information posts which I hope will become valuable Internet resources for people who share the same love I do. My first series is for planting Cypripediums, the genus of orchids I started with. Cyps (short form) are slipper orchids of the northern hemisphere, most of which are temperate zone inhabitants. In this first of three volumes I will discuss preparing the planting area.

Most species and hybrids prefer light shade, as you would get at woodland egdes. They need diffuse light to bloom, but too much direct sun easily scorches the leaves (even here in zone 3). Choose an area with such lightinng conditions, outside unless you are growing a variety which is not hardy to your region (not likely; in volume 2 I'll include a list of common species and their hardiness). Secondly, most Cyps need a lot of room to expand their rhizomes, because they will (or at least should) be left undisturbed here for many years. Over time they'll form large clumps, and they don't tolerate competition. Most species and hybrids should have a hole about 16" deep and at least 12" wide. Granted Cyp roots are quite shallow, they should still have a deep hole for lots of drainage material at the bottom. Note that vigorous hybrids and large species like reginae need wider holes to accommodate their large rootstocks.

With the hole dug, line it with landscape fabric to keep weeds out and add 10" of drainage material. The roots of the plant only need 6" of soil on top of this. Add 2-3" of the soil mix to the drainage layer, then spread the roots over this horizontally and fill the hole, without patting down. Then water thoroughly. The tips of the growth buds (on dormant plants) should be about an inch below the soil surface.

The next volume will be on species/hybrid hardiness and soil composition.

New Upgrade!

Joe's Orchids has been uprgaded to the new version of Blogger, Blogger Beta! Over the next couple of days I'll be tinkering around with the new features no make the page its best possible. As well, I've changed the address for the page to http://joesorchids.blogspot.com.